Maybe all the pastel metallics and spiky pixie hair (Winona Ryder in Rolling Stone, anyone?) suddenly feel fresh because the 90’s are now over a decade old.
From top: 1994 New York Magazine, pages from Comme des Garcons’ SIX shot by Peter Lindbergh, Gianna Versace ad.
I don’t know why but these looks from Spring 2010 remind me a lot of the The Virgin Suicides (book not movie.) The first two are kind of creepy and innocent and the last is sort of sad and rusty and feels like a reminder of an ideal unfulfilled. Love this book, love these looks…
Christopher Kane, Fendi, Yohji Yamamoto, all via style.com
I was tired and stressed and uncomfortably warm. The unpleasant heat and anxiety that stirred our standing group at Thakoon still hung over our heads and Chris Benz was so crowded and the models so awkwardly placed that we could barely see the clothes. Maria Cornejo from that morning was great but felt like ages ago. I wanted to go to the hotel and nap before the big big big show- Marc Jacobs. Not gonna happen, though.
The best therapy? Afternoon light coming in through a giant wall-window, beautifully helping to display clean cut blazers, crisp button downs that looked as if they’d just come off a backyard clothesline, shorts and trousers in the perfect shade of mint, Bob Dylan hair and an air of nostalgia that came with a yellow rust-like print and light denim jackets. Patrick Ervell Spring 2010 was simply fresh. Not groundbreaking, and by no means a cerebral collection. But the mood was strong and the clothes came with memories of summers past that aren’t even my own-rolling down a grassy hill, for example. Relaxing indeed.
Last season, Marc Jacobs was a solid flashback to the 80’s and not much else. His recent Spring 2010 collection, however, can’t be retraced to just one idea. References came from everywhere this time, and quickly brought the plain white box of the Armory in New York City, where Jacobs held the show, to life.
So, what were all these references? I myself thought it was very geisha-circus-mermaid-pajamas-ballet class, obviously very girly and, of course, a bit granny. Marc Jacobs really is the king of making the kooky old lady look “work” for younger women, and the pieces from this collection will look great on anyone from a lady in her 20’s to her 70’s. In fact, I think the collection could even look decent on somebody in her 13’s! Hint, hint. HINT. (Also, I would love to see BryanBoy and Jean Paul Paula rocking these pieces as well.)
The styling is so SO inspiring.
The collection wasn’t very flashy, especially not after the shiny 80’s redoux of last season, where the inspiration was very literally interpreted. This time things were a little bit more “off,” much to my own glee and squealing as the editors sitting by me look unimpressed. This obviously means the collection wasn’t as glamorous as that 80’s one, or other designers that showed in New York, but who is really dying to be glamorous now when I think it’s safe to say the reign of Last Night’s Party and bandage dresses fit for Winona’s weekly DSYC is over? Jacobs even told style.com he’s tired of seeing young girls in black and studs (which I have to second.) As Donatella Versace recently said, glamor nowadays is all about contradictions. At Marc Jacobs, the silhouettes were awkward yet graceful. Most of the individual pieces were pretty pretty and prim and proper, but the styling made it all a bit disheveled. Sounds like a way more secretive and awesome kind of vavavavoom to me.
So, while Jacobs’s fanny packs and flats might not compliment an outfit full of studded leather as well as shiny leather handbags and 5 inch heels, they are far more impressive when you can pull them off. And I know I would much rather be the awkward fanny-pack-with-flats, ruffle overkill, loads-o-layers show goer than…anything else, really.