rough around the edges
Herve Leger and Calvin Klein, both Fall 2010.
This was posted by tavi on the 30th of March, 2010
Y Y Y so fun?
Ah, bad puns! Anyway, one of my favorite shows of New York last season was undoubtedly Y-3, Yohji Yamamoto’s line for Adidas. His namesake label has lots of draped, loose clothing, and the clothes for Y-3 usually carry the same free-spirited feel. This season was no exception – fun, colorful, everything I guess you would expect from Yohji Yamamoto when he’s making sportswear. It’s very interesting to see a conceptual designer’s idea of more wearable practicality, and to see one make their inspiration more literal – this time, soccer, which included goal net mesh dresses (a bright pink one was my favorite piece from the collection, along with white leather strappy wedges-I am team Nineties Minimalism, all the way) and a soccer net even dropped down from the ceiling for the finale…
All around, lots of fun! I am awful at sports but maybe I will consider joining a school team if it means an excuse to buy one of these dresses (which I’m sure are totally necessary for volleyball, right?):
This was posted by tavi on the 15th of January, 2010
And filed under 90's, fashion week, favorite, good shoes, minimalism, spring 2010, y-3, yohji yamamoto
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beach bum
Yeah, let’s be honest: New York is probably the most wearable out of the four big Fashion Week cities, and sometimes it feels like you’re seeing the same stuff over and over again. That’s why I love Boy by Band of Outsiders, though: each season Scott Sternberg delivers pieces that are versatile and easy to wear but still have character. His aesthetic is consistent but each collection has a different overall mood.
This season it was beach bum.
The presentation was set up like a beach with old recliners and suitcases placed here and there. Mix that with the shades of gray and beige- and of course Boy’s staple, navy-in forms of parkas and perfectly slouchy pants, and you have yourself a cloudy day on the beach. And aren’t those kinds the most refreshing? I like a gloomier take on beach inspiration for Spring/Summer, and the gray moodiness made it all a bit more cool and relaxed.
I loved the use of that stretchy fisherman’s suspenders fabric (also seen in the first picture of this post.)
Perfectly laid back coats. The fur is a nice touch to this gray anorak.
Yep, I’ll go there this summer.
This was posted by tavi on the 30th of November, 2009
And filed under beach, boy by band of outsiders, fashion week, i love a good coat, spring 2010
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My favorite of New York
During a season where everyone else seems to be focused on a lighter shade of Spring, Kate and Laura Mulleavy have gone rather dark. The imaginations of these two sisters are always widespread, and were this season, as well — the inspiration was condors, vultures, and girls that burn in the desert and become vultures. A very dramatic collection, the clothes were shades of primarily black and red, and there was of course the mixture of different textures and fabrics that has become a huge part of the quickly developed Rodarte aesthetic. And along with the fog, the lights, the Nicholas Kirkwood shoes of steel, arm tattoos inspired by LA gang girls, and strings of blood-like string trailing from the body, there were also these more homely fabrics: plaids, cheesecloths, and what looks like a soft burlap. A bit like the sisters themselves. While their imaginations and inspirations take them everywhere, both girls remain very down-to-earth. A dramatic collection for Spring, but much more natural feeling than a number of other shows. And the moment the first model glided down the runway in a dress made out of burnt fabrics with a streak of lime running through her chest, even the show goers that fake-coughed at the fog and tried to act unimpressed by the setting were instantly drawn in and wide eyed.
This was posted by tavi on the 20th of October, 2009
And filed under adventures, dark, fashion week, favorite, good shoes, magic, plaids, Rodarte, spring 2010
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Polaroids at Rodarte
Backstage at Rodarte. More here.
This was posted by tavi on the 18th of October, 2009
And filed under backstage, fashion week, favorite, magic, models, polaroids, Rodarte, the little things
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Patrick Ervell
I was tired and stressed and uncomfortably warm. The unpleasant heat and anxiety that stirred our standing group at Thakoon still hung over our heads and Chris Benz was so crowded and the models so awkwardly placed that we could barely see the clothes. Maria Cornejo from that morning was great but felt like ages ago. I wanted to go to the hotel and nap before the big big big show- Marc Jacobs. Not gonna happen, though.
The best therapy? Afternoon light coming in through a giant wall-window, beautifully helping to display clean cut blazers, crisp button downs that looked as if they’d just come off a backyard clothesline, shorts and trousers in the perfect shade of mint, Bob Dylan hair and an air of nostalgia that came with a yellow rust-like print and light denim jackets. Patrick Ervell Spring 2010 was simply fresh. Not groundbreaking, and by no means a cerebral collection. But the mood was strong and the clothes came with memories of summers past that aren’t even my own-rolling down a grassy hill, for example. Relaxing indeed.
This was posted by tavi on the 10th of October, 2009
And filed under bob dylan, fashion week, i love a good coat, menswear, pastels, patrick ervell, spring 2010
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el oh vee eeeeee
Last season, Marc Jacobs was a solid flashback to the 80’s and not much else. His recent Spring 2010 collection, however, can’t be retraced to just one idea. References came from everywhere this time, and quickly brought the plain white box of the Armory in New York City, where Jacobs held the show, to life.
So, what were all these references? I myself thought it was very geisha-circus-mermaid-pajamas-ballet class, obviously very girly and, of course, a bit granny. Marc Jacobs really is the king of making the kooky old lady look “work” for younger women, and the pieces from this collection will look great on anyone from a lady in her 20’s to her 70’s. In fact, I think the collection could even look decent on somebody in her 13’s! Hint, hint. HINT. (Also, I would love to see BryanBoy and Jean Paul Paula rocking these pieces as well.)
The styling is so SO inspiring.
The collection wasn’t very flashy, especially not after the shiny 80’s redoux of last season, where the inspiration was very literally interpreted. This time things were a little bit more “off,” much to my own glee and squealing as the editors sitting by me look unimpressed. This obviously means the collection wasn’t as glamorous as that 80’s one, or other designers that showed in New York, but who is really dying to be glamorous now when I think it’s safe to say the reign of Last Night’s Party and bandage dresses fit for Winona’s weekly DSYC is over? Jacobs even told style.com he’s tired of seeing young girls in black and studs (which I have to second.) As Donatella Versace recently said, glamor nowadays is all about contradictions. At Marc Jacobs, the silhouettes were awkward yet graceful. Most of the individual pieces were pretty pretty and prim and proper, but the styling made it all a bit disheveled. Sounds like a way more secretive and awesome kind of vavavavoom to me.
So, while Jacobs’s fanny packs and flats might not compliment an outfit full of studded leather as well as shiny leather handbags and 5 inch heels, they are far more impressive when you can pull them off. And I know I would much rather be the awkward fanny-pack-with-flats, ruffle overkill, loads-o-layers show goer than…anything else, really.
This was posted by tavi on the 2nd of October, 2009
And filed under 70's, 90's, ballerina-inspired, fashion week, favorite, girly, good shoes, i love a good coat, marc jacobs, pastels, spring 2010
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R.E.S.P.E.C.T
For seasons, Alexander Wang was considered by some nothing more than a moment, fit merely for cameos on The Cobrasnake. As models strutted out of what looked like a box of triumphant white light, showcasing his Spring 2010 collection, many of the theories pertaining to the latter were quickly proved incorrect.
The entire collection was a mix of the Football Jock — sweatshirt fabric and other sports materials, brown leather tied up with corset strings to resemble a football, football-shaped purses, rugby stripes, big padded shoulders, reworked Letterman jackets and hoodies; with the Preppy Cheerleader — schoolgirl socks with slits up the back, pinstriped details, braided hair for the models, and white polos with a few minor details (like, I don’t know, an entire sleeve) Alex-ified.
Classic American football details and animal print wedges I feel like I should hate but am kind of obsessed with. Also, AVIATOR CAPS!
Knee highs, conservative brown wedges, school uniform polo – shoutouts to the schoolgirl.
There was a hint of the easy, effortless Alexander Wang we’re already familiar with there as well, in form of something that couldn’t look more breezy and brilliantly careless: bedsheets. Quilted shorts, heels and wedges that look like slippers from the front, and coats with yards of striped gray fabric streaming out of the upper back, something I am now dubbing The Morning After Coat (patent pending.) I certainly wouldn’t mind owning this coat to snuggle and pet at night, and I’m sure the rebellious Alexander Wang girl wouldn’t mind running away in it.
Classic Wang cuts
Not putting me to sleep! Quilted shorts and my soon-to-be-copyrighted “Morning After “coat
Of course, the browns, olives, grays, and bedsheet fabrics were glammed up (ew I hate that word okay I’ll use it) in a way only Mr. Wang himself could glam — tinsel tops, animal print shoes, puffed sleeves, lots of leather, the coolest shades ever that highly resemble those in That One Photo Of Kate Moss In Which She Is Screaming And Looking Awesome And Wearing Those Awesome Sunglasses (I googled “kate moss screaming cheetah print jacket sunglasses” to find the picture and all that came up was a suggestion to change “Screaming” to “Screamin.” Bitchin?)
Oooh shiny
The glorious, borderline-tacky (but glorious) shoes. Nice chunky heels (these would so definitely be trashy if the heel was skinny and curvy) and the one on the right is like a better version of McQueen’s — clearly motorcyle jacket-inspired but less costume-y
This season also showed more layering and individual pieces than Wang’s more minimalistic past collections – as an obnoxious clothes horse, I am a fan of the layering – though it is definite that the awesomeness of the collection wasn’t due to just the styling.
(This is where I am a mean critical old grump.) The only problems I had with the collection were a few awkward cuts – around that area, specifically, ho hum – that were just very strange and didn’t seem to reach what I imagine the original ambition with those details was. However, this was the most deconstruction Wang has ever tried his beautiful and very nice to shake (I was lucky to meet him backstage and died, consequently) (!!!!) hand at, and I’m sure it won’t be long until he masters deconstruction, as well.
There were more layers than Wang has done before, but the collection showed more bare human character than previous seasons — this time the clothes were a little less club girl, and while the coolness was still there, it was a bit cheeky and funny and humble, too. While his clothes make a girl look breezy and effortless, there definitely wasn’t little effort from his end this season. Alexander Wang is much more than a moment, and is here to stay.
all photos, style.com. crappy video, me.
This was posted by tavi on the 18th of September, 2009
And filed under alexander wang, fashion week, football, good shoes, i love a good coat, schoolgirl, spring 2010
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Fashion Week!
What a crazy crazy week. It was sort of really bummertown/annoying/strange to go back to school after days of getting to run around to shows (some of which we were lucky to be front row) with the amazing Elizabeth and Laia and being surrounded by a group of people who-though some try to act too cool to admit it-get excited about the atmosphere and clothes and people just as much as you do. For one week I was in a utopia full of people who can recognize that my jacket is Luella and appreciate that I stuck an upside-down doll in its chest pocket, that get about as psyched as insane pearly ruffles at Marc Jacobs, and also want to swim in the fog that flooded the floor at Rodarte. Not to mention a pretty amazing night for the relaunch of the one and only POP…
So, until I can get these 400 photos and videos uploaded and edited and organized, go over to the blogs of the other girls and read up on what they thought, and, for extra good measure, admire how terrific and sober I look when dancing and smiling (WHY SO PHOTOGENIC, WHY!)